To the south of Dumfries lies the small village of Carsethorn, a pretty little place which sits overlooking the Solway Firth. It’s here that marks the start of a wonderful 6-mile coastal walk to nearby Powillimount via a huge, golden beach with gorgeous views to England. To make it even better, the walk passes through a fantastic natural arch, the ‘Thirl Stane’ before eventually reaching the John Paul Jones Museum and then looping back to Carsethorn.
These are only a few of the highlights on a walk that has become one of my favourite coastal walks in Dumfries & Galloway.
Starting Out
The walk starts at the very small village of Carsethorn, which sits about 13 miles to the south of Dumfries. I stress ‘very small’ as parking is not easy, with a small carpark sitting across from the Steamboat Inn which can hold about 12 cars. It is possible to take the bus to Carsethorn, so depending on where you are coming from, this may be a viable solution.
Alternatively, this IS a circuit walk and there is lovely, large coastal carpark at Powillimount which will be quieter (especially at cooler times of year) so it might be best to head there first if it’s the height of summer!
Luckily, I managed to get parked at Carsethorn on a brisk day.
Carsethorn to Powillimount
From the little carpark, it takes just a few steps to be on the huge beach and the walk begins! I can’t stress enough how huge the beach is and on a day with low tide it’s a wonderful feelings strolling along this gigantic, smooth beach.
I have done a lot of coastal walking in Dumfries & Galloway and many of the walks follow narrow coastal tracks next to giant cliffs. This walk is totally different. It’s flat and sprawling. A nice change, especially if you prefer this kind of thing!
The views in all directions are beautiful, with the English Lake District clearl visible to the south and it takes no time at all for one of my favourite hills in the region to come in to view: Criffel!
The going was incredibly easy and I was enjoying just strolling along the beach (which was largely deserted) and seeing what I could see. Badger tracks were visible in the sand, as were quite a lot of rabbit burrows along the coastline.
This walk really is perfect for any ability level, perfect if you just want to have a small stroll at a pretty village. Later on, the beach has some rocky outcrops that may make the going a little harder but it’s nothing strenuous.
There is also always something interesting to look at. Such as huge boulders with odd cracks!
There is also the beautiful ‘House on the Shore‘, a luxury home built on the grounds of the Arbigland Estate. It’s absolutely huge and very impressive as you walk by it!
The real highlight of the beach is the Thirl Stane, an amazing rocky outcrop with a perfect tunnel going through it. It’s absolutely huge, towering over the beach and you cannot visit this beach without walking through it!
“a large rock about 100 feet square having a natural gothic arch thro’ it, and through which runs the flow and ebb of the tide. The arch will admit of a common sized man to walk upright under it. It is situated on the sea coast of the farm of Powillimount, and is considered to be one of the greatest curiosities along this Coast.”
– Thirl Stane at Grampain Speleological Group
Powillimount to Carsethorn
Eventually, the beach arrives at a little carpark at Powillimount, which is another fantastic starting point for this walk. Or, alternatively, you can carry on to visit Southerness Lighthouse, which is the 2nd oldest lighthouse in Scotland. It apparently became a lighthouse around 1811 after previously existing as a signal cairn (which was constructed in 1748). I made a mental note to return here again sometime and carry on to visit the lighthouse.
When I do, I will update this blog post with some new images!
From the carpark at Powillimount, the path heads north through some farmland before heading along a little track that passes by the John Paul Jones Birthplace Museum.
John Paul Jones is a somewhat controvertial figure: being viewed as a traitor in the UK and as the ‘Father of the American Navy’ in the USA. Born in Arbigland, Kirkcudbrightshire in 1747, he became a sailor at the age of 13 and eventually ended up living in the colony of Virginia.
At the outbreak of the American Revolution, he joined the side of the USA and helped the fledgling country to build a navy.
This fascinating little museum was closed at the time of my visit, as it is only open seasonally, from the 1st of April to the 31st of September. Although i still had a wee snoop around the grounds, which included a large memorial stone to John Paul Jones.
The next highlight of the walk is very close to the museum, and is a small graveyard to the Blackett family of Arbigland. The family have owned Arbigland Estate for centuries and are deeply embedded in the history of the area.
The little graveyard was an interesting, poignant surprise which I hadn’t anticipated when I started the walk but it was a real highlight, above the beach and nestled in the quiet trees. It’s a lovely, quiet spot.
The rest of the walk strolls through dense woodland before arriving at open farmland with beautiful views over the fields towards Criffel. Eventually, the little road snakes back into Carsethorn completing what is a wonderful circular walk in Dumfries & Galloway.
Thoughts
This walk is really something special, being so close to Dumfries and such an easy walk. You can make it shorter and just stroll along the beach until you want to head home. Or, alternatively, you can head to Southerness and the lighthouse if you want to make it longer.
If you want something a little less remote and more of a beach-walk rather than a coastal walk then Carsethorn to Powillimount is hard to beat!
Walk Information
Route Length: 6 miles
Carsethorn Postcode: DG2 8DS
Powillimount Postcode: DG2 8BG