Gatehouse of Fleet is one of the prettiest villages in all of Dumfries & Galloway and one which I enjoy visiting throughout the year. I have lost count of the number of times I’ve done the wonderful walk from the Cally Woods to the beautiful beach at Sandgreen, which starts in the wood to the east of the town and heads south to the coast.
So it was with great interest that I noticed, on WalkHighlands, a report for a little 1,201ft hill which sits high above Gatehouse of Fleet at the beautiful Loch Whinyeon. I was immediately intrigued: a small hill, in a very pretty area, sitting beside a loch I could fish at a later date?
I sensed a wonderful future fishing opportunity and a great days walk.
What I got was a hidden gem of a walk and one of the nicest viewpoints in Dumfries & Galloway.
Starting Out in Gatehouse of Fleet
Parking throughout Dumfries & Galloway is largely free in all the towns and villages and Gatehouse of Fleet is no different. The road into the town (from the south) S-bends into the town and I parked at the south end of the village on a crisp, winter morning. I’d spent longer than I’d wanted scraping ice from the windshield prior to setting off and I was delighted to arrive in Gatehouse of Fleet to see the sleepy village under a bright blue sky. The cars were covered in frost and the town was relatively quiet.
I was soon booted up and walking north up through the High Street, with Messi in tow. I love all the little shops, the country pubs and the tranquil vibe of the village. Messi was peering in shop windows and seemed to be enjoying watching the residents: some of whom were defrosting their cars while others were nipping home, having bought a loaf of bread for their morning toast!
Passing the clock tower (which dates back to 1871), we arrived at the little war memorial at the north end of the village, before turning left onto Laurieston Road. Passing the entirely frozen-over duck pond, we followed the pavement which runs alongside some fields, one of which had a pair of horses that were grazing in the morning sunlight. It was a very pretty countryside scene: a theme which would describe the entire day.
The road passes by Gatehouse Golf Club before swinging into some woodland. I noticed a couple walking ahead of us, clearly enjoying a morning stroll. A fallen tree seemed to catch his attention, “I will have to chainsaw that” I heard him say to his wife as I approached.
I said hello and, seeing my camera around my neck, he asked if I was out for a walk. “Yeah”, I replied, “I’m heading up to Loch Whinyeon”. Without missing a beat he asked “Would you like to see a frozen waterfall? It’d make for a nice picture.”
A sentence I’d never heard before but it was such a lovely morning I said “sure, sounds great!”. It turned out the waterfall was in his garden: a very large garden with woodland, a waterfall and a very pretty little path winding through it all below a lovely house perched above. We made some small talk and, en-route, I couldn’t help but stop to take a picture of a buzzard which was perched in a tree, watching for rabbits in the field below.
Through a little gate and I was in a lovely little woodland garden, with a small gravel path winding through the trees until eventually arriving at, sure enough, a small frozen waterfall! It was a lovely scene, and we got to discussing the old flow of the stream and the prior prescence of a water-wheel.
I promised to shut the gate when I left, thanking the couple for their pleasantness and took a few pictures of the waterfall (and was amused as Messi strolled in for a drink).
It was a very pleasant countryside interaction!
The Moor
Back on the road, Messi and I resumed our walk to Loch Whinyeon. The road forks, with Laurieston Road heading north through woodland and fields. It’s a lovely walk and the scenery just solidifies this as a lovely countryside walk. Belted Galloway cattle were strolling in the fields to our left, while a deep gorge runs through some woodland to the right. A small herd of roe deer were trotting through the woods, startled by us walking by. A few crossed over the small road, heading into the field with the cows.
Eventually, the road gains enough altitude to leave the woodland and emerges high on the moors above Gatehouse of Fleet. I was expecting it to be pretty but I wasn’t prepared for how pretty the views were.
Rolling fields gave way to the hills in the distance, a handful of farm cottages dotted the landscape as sheeps strolled around the fields which were blanketed in the winter sun. Above, the pale cyan-sky barely had a cloud and, to the south, the sea was shimmering. In the distance, Cairnsmore of Fleet towers on the skyline.
It was absolutely gorgeous and one of the best countryside views I’ve seen in all of Dumfries & Galloway.
I’d strongly suggest driving up to this spot just to see it as there is a large, free carpark on the moor: you don’t have to do any walking and it’s a short drive from Gatehouse of Fleet. It is called ‘Knocktinkle’ (what a name!) and is a fantastic spot to stop the car and just take in the views. HERE is a little leaflet from Dumfries & Galloway Council on it.
Bengray and Loch Whinyeon
Eventually the road arrives at a little bridge and, just before it, there is a green sign that points the way to Loch Whinyeon. Departing the road, we headed onto the moor and, after jumping a nice wooden stile, we were ascending on the small track to the loch.
Behind us, the views were only getting better and better. Eventually, the track arrives at a large cairn just before reaching Loch Whinyeon. Did I mention there’s a bench?
After admiring the bench (I am partial to a bench), we strolled towards Loch Whinyeon. It immediately got added to my ‘must-return-to-fish-here’ list.
The edges of the loch were frozen and the loch was shimmering in the cold winter sun, creating a wonderful atmosphere. I was impressed at how big the loch was, looking perfect for fishing in the summer months.
Standing on the edge of the loch, the silence was wonderful. Absolutely nobody was around and that solitude would continue as we headed for Bengray.
The path had fizzled out at the loch and in order to reach bengray, some off-roading was required. Sometimes trudging through snow-covered heather can be tedious but the going was surprisingly easy. The snow was soft and powdery, albeit thick in places but there were no hidden pits or hard tussocks and before we knew it, we had passed by a small ruin at the edge of the loch and were making our ascent of Bengray.
In the shadows, the snow was getting quite deep but the going was still relatively easy. As usual, Messi was having a ball. I’d found a faint track through the snow and was admiring the prints in the untouched snow (grouse, deer and fox) and, frankly, I was using it as an excuse for a breather every 10 minutes. Messi, was sprinting uphill like a rocket, stopping, then running back to me with a face that said “why is this taking you so long?”.
We have done this routine for years and at this point I’m convinced he just likes rubbing it in!
Eventually, we came over the summit ridge and I was blown away by the views. Messi, was demanding his pork pie.
The summit was a bit like standing in a snow globe. Thick snow was under my feet, a bitter wind was hitting my face and an endless blue sky was above.
This little hill may only be 1,201ft but the views were spectacular. The snow-covered moors went on for miles, the hills in the distance marked the landscape and Loch Whinyeon far below had a glassy tranquillity.
I gave Messi his pork pie (the cold and the views all far less important to him than the pie) and I got my thermal gloves out and just took it all in.
He finished his pie rather quickly and strolled over to the edge of the cliff, seemingly joining me in looking south to the views over the moors and woodland and out to sea.
Bengray is a hill many locals won’t have heard of and even fewer will have ever climbed. More people will be aware of Loch Whinyeon and what a picturesque area it is.
If you are looking for a wonderful walk in Dumfries & Galloway, where you will be guaranteed wonderful views, cosy countryside scenes, wildlife and a good walk then I’d suggest checking out this walk. Bengray may be a small hill, but it offers a big day out.
I’d also suggest visiting even if you don’t want to do the full walk. Loch Whinyeon is only around a mile from the Knocktinkle carpark. Or simply bring a picnic and sit in the carpark.
It’s a wonderful area, full of natural beauty and one you should make time to visit if you are in the area.
Route Information
Route Length: 8 miles
Parking: FREE (in both Gatehouse of Fleet and Knocktinkle)
Knocktinkle Postcode: DG7 2BG